Last week-end I went to my first Italian wedding ever, which was interesting after the never-ending wave of English weddings I’ve attended in the last 4 years. Great opportunity to get a new suit, so a couple days previous to the event, Dad took me to our favourite local “negozio d’abbigliamento” to have a suit fitted. I couldn’t help but notice a lovely linen white jacket and once I’d put it on, that was it. H-O-T! With a swish red linen shirt to go with and brown leather shoes, I was ready to rock the Casbah… It’s not that I try to stand out, it just kind of happens! Upon arrival at the celebr
ation, I quickly realised I was the only guy wearing a white suit, and that the only other blondes there were the girls with bleached hair. I clumsily attempted to introduce myself to the other guests as “Giuseppe”, but failed miserably; anyway, at the table I was sat at in the evening, I was the only guy from out of town, so my ever-confusing story came out pretty soon. Funny thing, an Italian wedding: tons of amazing food, plenty of wine, some of the guys looking like Mafiosi with massive sunglasses, others looking like gigolos, with their striped suits and collars pointed upward, all women wearing décolletés down to their solar plexus as if it were the most normal thing in the world. Another gaffe I made was to answer, when asked what is the best food in the world, after all my travels, not having quite realised it was rhetorical, “Oh Italian of course! … Though the Chinese are pretty good too…” I almost got stabbed and mauled by the girl I was talking to. “I’m just saying (blargh! Dying…), we owe them a lot… historically… Marco Polo (last breath)…”But it was a lovely wedding and I had a great time, even the Catholic ceremony was really enjoyable, though it led me to many thoughts concerning the papist dogma. The priest was actually fun to listen to, something I don’t think I’ve ever experienced, and some of the theological points he made were spot on, but my dad did notice me seething with my fists clenched and my head bowed in groaning when the aforementioned speaker declared the omnipotence of Mary and invoked prayers for dead people… (my thoughts at the time, something along the lines of: “Sho-Jesuuu-ken!”)
As I write this, I’m actually sleep-deprived, and should be in bed right now, there’s another story. We’re actually right in the middle of a heat-wave here in Italy, and it’s killing me. Now some of our southern readers living in northern countries are saying “heat-wave, gimme some of that!” but that is something I’m just no longer used to. Lying in a puddle of sweat in the middle of the night, worrying whether you are actually going to dry up and they won’t find your body in the morning, is not a nice thing. Which is why I am sleeping in the basement, where there is yet a bit of humanly liveable atmosphere left. However, since I’ve been going from place to place, I’ve found myself in different accommodation settings for the past few nights. The most fun was in my sister’s room, on the fifth floor of a block of flats in central Rome.
I hadn’t actually been to Rome since December 2007, when I did my CELTA course there, and I suddenly decided two days ago to head down to what I’ve tentatively denominated the “beautiful chaos” of the capital. My sister spent last week-end touring the north of Italy with a friend, trying to promote her album which is just wonderful (and available on iTunes: Eli Natali, Interprétation), by playing in skanky bars. As she came down to go back to work, I hopped on the train with her. I spent half of yesterday recording some of my own songs on her awesome system (for my own use, so don’t worry about being asked to listen…) and then indulged myself to a walking tour of the beautiful cultural capital of Europe. It has been several summers since I came to Rome, bu
t I realised after a while… Rome smells. In the winter it’s not noticeable, in fact that is why it’s the best time to visit, but as the sun beats onto the rubbish dumps and the dog poo at the corner of every street, the odour rises to create something quite unpleasant in some parts of town. Thankfully, the historic spots are taken care of a bit better and I was able to enjoy all those places yet again. There’s something quite nice about having familiarity with a place, and I’m getting to know parts of Rome quite well. My walk took me all the way back to my private spot in the metropolis, a café in the Feltrinelli bookshop of Via del Corso, within the great Alberto Sordi arcade. Italians don’t do cafés the way Brits and Parisians do, enjoying a mug over a couple hours with one friend or just on their own, no, they sometimes come in loud groups of even four or five, something I’d consider quite bothersome, say, on the first floor of Nero’s in Canterbury. In fact, I’m often the only freak in Rome sitting on my own with my cappuccino reading or jotting thoughts down for several hours! Anyway, even on my own I enjoyed doing the touristy things, taking photos here and there, even though I’d love to take someone round t
hose places, share them with others… I finally ended up in Termini for dinner with some old friends of mine… Working in a language school you get to meet some interesting people. I’m down with the Chinese-Roman crew, a group of second generation Chinese kids grown up in Rome… Good kids, but even they are more Roman than I am. I was so pleased to be able to meet up with them after such a long time: we met at an awesome Hong Kong restaurant right next to Termini station (go there if you get a chance), owned by my friend Angelo’s parents, but he was the boss that night, and soon, Paolo, Mirko and I (obviously, they have Chinese names) had about
a dozen plates of different specialties on the table, eating Chinese style, just picking and choosing randomly from dish to dish. I was proven right: real Chinese food is on par with Italian. Fried sausage, chicken’s feet, whole fish, Korean gnocchi, breaded chicken, Cantonese rice, the list goes on… At the end, I ask my Chinese brother: “Chyin, geiwo júu…” Got any liqueur? “I’ll sort you out.” He comes back with a bottle of what appears to be sake, fills my glass to the brim and says “drink up!” After the first sip, I was sure it wasn’t sake… I can’t believe the Chinese, who can hardly handle alcohol, would make 62% drinks!!! Cao Liang Chiew… friggin’ punk. Burned a hole right through me. But it was fun. For them. “You not gonna have any?” I asked. “No, no, I’m fine.” Anyway, it was a good night, and in the end, he didn’t charge us, because he’s a legend.
My night ended later on, as I got a lift back to near my sister’s and went to meet her where she was at. Having dinner in the street, with a table and everything, in this hippie corner of town, where people just hang out. It was quite something, to see all the neighbours sitting round the table in their alleyway, eating and drinking, and talking about the deep stuff Italians always end up talking about… Out of a film almost, like Stealing Beauty. A part of me couldn’t help but feel out of place, slightly bourgeois, though I’d probably do that every night if I could! Following this short trip I have some more thoughts about the Roman life, still need to formulate them properly though…
So there it is, don’t know whether I said anything interesting, but I’m back off to the beach for some chillin’ and swimmin’…!











